Found no leaks present at this time. I also got coolant temperature readings of 90 after taking it on a drive which seems fine. If your using the dash computer figures they can be quite innacurate. So I can't see it being the water pump. I had the same a recurring coolant sensor fault despite everything being fine. March 18, 2019 Followup from the Pelican Staff: You could have a faulty thermostat or head gasket. Hi and Low side pressures are static at approx.
It shouldn't vary that much but then it may be a chicken and egg situation - is the variation causing the lumpy idle or the other way round? Just wanted some advice if this could be the cause of the low fuel economy. So, is that a bad ground at T14a pin 9? But hopefully only the one of them helps throw P2181. But, if yours seems to be excessive, that might help point you in a certain direction. Thanks for the help so far. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need. Lift up the tab on the connector and then lift the connector off the sensor.
Will check the torsion value and report back. If, the fault was being picked up in the engine module, the readings wouldn't be correct, right? I changed this today folks, will see if it makes a difference, but the job itself is very easy! I had the same thing. That wire leads to a ground point. I have removed the battery and tray to get better pictures but you do not need to remove these to perform this work. Others say no, keep the vacuum. Need to buy parts for this project? Hey mate, u sure its the sensor? I have a sneaking suspicion I'll need to replace the thermostat though.
Then later in the day as it warms up a little the light goes off. I told him what I had found on line. Essentially, someplace in the wiring harness of the car there is a ground wire. I would like to verify that on a 2006. Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. The dash temp indication seems to be working fine.
A cautionary note however, as 2 months later my car developed a high idle 1800 rpm when cold, which I didn't connect with the new temp sensor. The internal blowers work ok. You are looking at upward of 15-20 hours of work to find out where it is, and you would be better off just ripping out the dash and replacing the entire harness if the issue comes out to be a ground. Every time I would check it out I would have full coolant. I recommend draining and flushing your coolant system while performing this job, but if you are just going to just change the sensors please make sure you are prepared to properly catch and dispose of the coolant that will spill out and don't forget to top up the coolant level when you are done.
Debating on not if I should just do the damn work myself. I replaced the temp sensor but it turned out that it was not the sensor but the thermostat switch stuck open, hence coolant was constantly flowing through the radiator and keeping engine cold esp at speed. Popular replacement part brands include Graf, Vemo, Bosch, Vaico, Hepo, Behr. By monitoring the value substracting these two sensors, to control the fan activation and speed. They said its most likely the water pump as the impeller starts to move on the shaft so when its idling and a bit cooler the shaft is not pumping much coolant but when the coolant warms it grips and pumps coolant and hence the temperature fluctuation. One thing I have seen too, is that quick temperature and pressure changes, like when a weather front moves through, can cause enough pressure differential between the atmosphere inside the reservoir and outside. Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799.
Tired of answering the same questions time and time again? They are very easy to replace so I'd rather spend next to nothing on one and if it dies then just buy another one. Sorry if i've rambled on for long. It is located to the right of the engine block when looking down at the engine bay, facing the side of the battery. My car isn't overheating or taking too long too warm up, so I'm guessing its not a bad thermostat or water pump. In order for your engine to run properly the heat must be dissipated from the engine. I'd probably knock the torsion angle back a little so it's negative and see if that helps.
Is the cabin heater activated according to the coolant temperature?. Return the sensor as the new pump has it. If it comes out, quickly swap the new sensor in. The housing can get road grime in it so make sure you take care not to get any into the pipe and give it a good cleaning before installing the new sensor, gasket and clip. Cheers Alex Most likely a faulty temperature sensor.